• Paris
  • French Open

    June 20, 2013

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    We were able to go to the French Open a few weekends ago and got so lucky because it was the first really nice day in Paris since we arrived.  It had rained almost everyday (at some point during the day) the week prior and I was a little worried that we wouldn’t get to see any matches or have to sit around in puddles of rain.

    Like I said last year, Dusty and I are both novices when it comes to tennis but what we love is going to cheer the athletes on, especially the American and French players as well as be a part of the excitement surrounding the event.

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    My favorite match to watch this year (and last year) was the Bryan brothers (see them above).  They’re ranked number 1 in the world for men’s doubles and really put on a great show.  They not only won the match but ended up winning the French Open men’s doubles.  We also got to see them play in 2010 in Omaha when they were on tour and probably another reason I’m such a fan.

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  • L’Eclair De Genie

    June 19, 2013

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    One of my obsessions this trip has been eclairs.  I really think it’s the baby that’s gotten me addicted to all of these delicious Parisian sweets.  A few of the Paris blogs I follow have something called an Eclair Smackdown.  They try a whole bunch of eclairs from some of the best pastry shops and then vote on which ones were the best.  One of the top winners was L’Eclair de Genie, which happens to be very close to our apartment so I thought I should sample some.

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    If you’re wondering what an eclair is, it’s an oblong pastry made with dough filled with a cream and topped with icing.  It originated in France and was called “pain à la duchesse” or “petite duchesse” until 1850.

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    L’Eclair de Genie is located just a block off the main road that takes you from the Bastille to the Louvre.  You have to know about this place to find it and wouldn’t just happen to stumble on it.  I’ve been there twice now and I can say that people do search for it because there’s always a line (not too long though).  I chose three that sounded delicious and took them home for Dusty and I to do our own taste test.  Our favorite was the caramel beurre sale (salted butter caramel) but we’re really addicted to anything of this flavor.  Our least favorite was the chocolat lait caramelia.  For me, it had a weird taste and I wasn’t very fond of it.  The chocolate grand cru had this wonderful dark chocolate flavor and resembled a traditional eclair.  One of my favorite parts to all of these gourmet stores is that all of the employees wear gloves.  They treat the merchandise as though it is a a precious gift.  And they put them in the cutest boxes too.  Click on the picture above if you’d like to see the ingredients at a closer glance.

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    As a reference, these eclairs cost 4.50 euros to 6 euros.  The eclairs at our local patisserie, just around the corner from us, cost 2.20 euros and are quite good but only come in three flavors, chocolate, vanilla and pistachio.  Again,  there’s no way to compare the gourmet L’Eclair de Genie eclairs with your everyday eclair.  It’s like comparing hershey chocolate to a handcrafted gourmet chocolate.  You’re trying to compare apples to oranges.  Hershey chocolate is good but every once in a while you have to have the gourmet chocolate (or eclair) as a special treat.

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  • Cafe Constant

    June 16, 2013

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    This past weekend Dusty and I got out of the apartment and spent a great day sightseeing around Paris.  As I mentioned in another post  we went to ‪Galeries Lafayette, a huge upscale department store to visit the grocery department, which is like a gourmet supermarket with kiosks of some of the highest end products you’ll ever see.  After Galeries Lafayette we strolled around the Eiffel Tower and then ended up at Cafe Constant.

    Christian Constant owns three restaurants on the same block near the Eiffel Tour: Le Violon d’Ingres, Les Cocottes and Café Constant.  Le Violon is considered his Michelin star high-end establishment, Les Cocottes is somewhere in the middle and then Cafe Constant is your traditional everyday dining bistro. Even though the later two aren’t high-end establishments, they still use high quality ingredients and are absolutely wonderful places.  We’ve been to Les Cocottes twice (once this summer and once last summer) and absolutely love it.

    They don’t take reservations at Cafe Constant and so you must wait your turn to get a spot in this coveted place.  The restaurant opens at 7pm and we arrived just five minutes after.  Everything you read says to get there early.  The place is small so the line forms outside (thank goodness it wasn’t raining).  There was a line but nothing we couldn’t handle.  We waited about 20 minutes before getting to the front and happened to get the last 2 spots at the bar.  What we missed before we got there was that there must have been a much longer line because if I were to guess, the place seats less than 55 people.  What we found out was that those behind us could put their name on a list and have a drink while lingering outside or come back at whatever time they were told.  I didn’t think this was too bad considering their are plenty of cafes close by to have a glass of wine and if you have an hour to waste, the Eiffel Tour is very close.

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    Dusty started out with tartare de saumon, hitres et bar au gingembre (salmon tartare on top of three raw oysters with shallots and ginger) and I started out with one of their specials for the evening, squid with bit of chorizo in the middle and this wonderful broth.  We both loved our starters.

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    For our main dish Dusty had the Escalope de veau Cordon-Bleu comme l’aiment nos enfants (veal cordon bleu “as the kids like it”) and I had the parmentier de cuisse de canard cruise au win rough, pommes gaufrettes (duck with a red wine sauce, potatoes, apples, wafers).  We thought the cordon bleu “as the kids like it” was a play on words and would be more of a gourmet cordon bleu but it wasn’t and nothing to write home about.  It tasted good but we were hoping for something a little more elevated.  We loved my dish and thought it was well executed.  Dusty obliged and helped me finish my dish so I didn’t have to leave anything on the plate uneaten.

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    We ended the meal by sharing the riz au lait a la vanille (rice pudding with caramel sauce) for dessert.  It was a very good rice pudding.  It’s not my favorite Paris rice pudding but I’d eat it again.  The prices were very reasonable as well.  Entrees (starters or appetizers) were 11 euros, plats (main dishes) were 16 euros, and desserts were 7 euros.

    Dusty and I eat late, especially while we’re in Paris.  The locals don’t eat until well after 8 or 9pm.  We even had dinner reservations at 10:30pm once.  Restaurants don’t even open until 7pm and when you see people in restaurants or cafe’s that early you know they’re Americans.  At Cafe Constant eating late is a bit hard to do because you must wait in line to get a spot.  It was well worth eating early though and we crossed another item off of our Paris bucket list!

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  • laregalade_001

    One of my favorite places to eat in Paris is La Regalade.  La Regalade bistro has three locations, it’s original on the left bank in the 14th arrondissement, one near the Louvre (La Régalade Saint Honoré) and a third (La Régalade Conservatoire), part of a new boutique hotel which just opened this year.

    Dusty called and made a reservation but the only time they had available was 7:30pm.  We knew it was going to be an early dinner but we were willing to sacrifice because it’s such a great place.  We showed up and after a little confusion we found out that someone else had taken our reservation (I’m assuming they had made a reservation at one of the other locations and didn’t know it).  They were very apologetic and asked if we could come back at 9pm.  We went to a nearby restaurant/bar for a drink, Willi’s Wine Bar.  Willi’s has been around since 1980 and although we just had drinks, the food looked spectacular.

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    Allison and Dusty enjoying a glass of wine at Willi’s before we went back to La Regalade.

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    La Regalade serves a delicious prix fixe menu of seasonal food for approximately 35€ that includes a starter, entree and dessert.  One of the things I love is that everyone starts with a communal housemade paté that comes in a hug terrine and a jar of cornichons (pickles).  You eat as much as you want and they take it away when your food comes.  Some might be put off by the fact that the same terrine is then given to another guest who might come in a little later but I’m not at all and love that they can serve it this way.

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    Of course we didn’t take a picture of the menu so I can’t tell you specifically what everything was called but Dusty started out with squid ink risotto with calamari, I had a fresh crab salad, and Allison had fresh vegetables on a thin tartlet.  Everything was well executed and so very delicious!  Before our starters came out we also were brought out a small cup of some type of cazpacho ceviche (which I’m sure happened because of the reservation issue).  I don’t traditionally like cold soups but this was an amazing tomato soup with avocado and shrimp at the bottom that you mix in with each bit.

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    For our main courses Dusty had duck and I had sea bream with artichokes.  Both were cooked perfectly and absolutely wonderful!

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    To end the meal Dusty and Allison had the absolutely best riz cuit au lait (rice pudding with caramel sauce on the side–my favorite in Paris) and I had the souffle chaud au Grand Mariner (Grand Mariner soufflé), knowing the rice pudding comes in a communal jar and there would be plenty for me.

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  • French Macarons

    June 14, 2013

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    One of the things on my Paris Bucket List for this summer was to go for macarons at Carette in Place des Vosge.  There are many well-known macaron shops but the reason for this one being on my list is that I’ve been following a few Paris blogs which said that Carette’s had some of the best macarons, and because the location is very near where we live that means I can walk there any afternoon.

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    When I first heard of macarons three summers ago I thought they were actually talking about macaroons (spelled differently and most definitely different).  The macaroon I always envisioned was a type of cookie made with almonds and coconut.

    And then there are the French macaroons, according to wikipedia they are a sweet meringue-based confection made with eggs, sugar, almond powder or ground almond, and food coloring. The macaron is commonly filled with ganache, buttercream or jam filling sandwiched between two biscuits.

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    Last week when it was really nice out I went to the park (which was also on my Paris Bucket List) and before heading home stopped at Carette’s to pick up a few macarons.  I picked up a caramel au beurre salé (salted butter caramel) , framboise (raspberry), chocolat, and vanille macaron.  Dusty and I shared them and our favorite was the caramel and then my second favorite was the raspberry.

    Just for reference, these macarons cost approximately 1.50 euros each (that’s about $2 each).  The macarons we had from Pierre Hermé while we were on our food tour were 2 euros each.  I’ve also paid 1 euro for them at an anonymous pâtisserie (pastry shop).  I’ve tried ones from three different shops now, at the three different prices, and I’d say that the two more expensive ones were of higher quality.  As far as which ones were the best, I think it just depends on which flavors you like best.  It’s like everything else in life; it just depends on how much you want to spend.  I wouldn’t mind trying macarons from other specialty shops like Hugo & Victor, Sadaharu Aoki, Jean-Paul Hévin, or Ladurée, which are also known for their excellent macarons.  I’m not obsessed with macarons but they are a French delicacy and I feel like I should know where the best places are to get them!

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  • capresesandwich

    On our food tour a couple weeks ago we went to Poilâne, a popular bakery in Paris with unique bread called pain Poilâne.  The store has been their since the early 1930s.  On our tour we discovered that the bakery is known for the traditional French dark sourdough loaves.  These loaves were very popular during WW II because they kept longer and could be cut into large slices.  Even as the baguette became the popular type of bread they believed in the great product they had.  The bread is still made with stone-ground flour, sea salt, and a wood-fired oven.  You can read more about the history of Poilâne on their website.

    These are reasons why I love going on great tours and reading blogs that talk about Paris, I would have never known that I should even try this bread otherwise.  I love baguettes and have never ventured to try anything else but since the tour we’ve fallen in love with this wonderful bread.  It is really nice to have a bread in the apartment and not have to go to the boulangerie if you want a sandwich.  Baguettes don’t last more than 24 hours and there’s no way to use a baguette from yesterday for your sandwich today.  The grocery store that we go to sells Poilâne bread so lately we’ve been picking up a quarter loaf for sandwiches.  A couple of days ago Dusty made us a lovely grilled caprese sandwich with soft mozzarella, fresh tomatoes from the market, and pesto.

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  • Paris has the biggest flea market in the world, Les Puces de Saint-Ouen Market (puce is French for “flea”) and sprawls over numerous blocks and into alleyways and covered halls that are filled with a variety of goods.

    I’m not exaggerating when I say that you can spend an entire day roaming the stalls and still not cover the whole market.  To help you invasion the atmosphere, it reminds me of outdoor and indoor storage facilities with small garages, filled with items ranging from the very large and expensive (some stalls resemble high-end antique shops with prices to match) to the tiny and cheap.

    A couple weeks ago Allison and I took the underground metro out to the 18th arrondissement to the flea market.  If you’re in Paris and want to go, make sure to use Oh Happy Day’s blog post on how to get there to find your way there.  This post of was helpful in getting us there and making sure we understood how the flea market was set up!  It isn’t just one big flea market but more like several small flea markets in the same area that are all connected.

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  • Paris Market

    June 8, 2013

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    In Paris, every neighborhood has it’s own outdoor market.  Our neighborhood market just happens to be the largest in Paris and is held every Thursday 8am to 1:30pm and Sunday 8am to 2pm.  Of course, there are also more traditional grocery stores, the one we go to is called the Monoprix, but in my interpretation most Parisians purchase at least some of their weekly groceries at one of these outdoor markets.  Dusty and I go to the Marché Bastille every Thursday and Sunday to pick up food for the next few days.

    Our market has three aisles of vendors that stretch several blocks. There are over a hundred different sellers, displaying a range of items from fruits to fish to flowers to leather goods and scarves, and everything in between.

    Here are a few pictures I took of les fleurs (the flowers) they sell at the market.  The flowers are so beautiful that it makes me want to fill our entire apartment with them.

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    Last summer we found a great website and blog, Paris by Mouth, that talks all about Paris food as well as conduct food tours and tastings.  At the end of our Paris stay last summer I went on a cheese tour that was not only informational but also a lot of fun. So this trip we planned to go on tour while our friend Allison was in town.

    And thus, this past week we went on a food tour of the Saint-Germain neighborhood.  The neighborhood is located on the left bank in the 6th Arrondissement in Paris and known for being artistry with many galleries as well as being an upper-class bourgeois residential district, with high-end clothing stores and restaurants.

    We started the tour out at Poilâne. Then on to Pierre Hermé, known for their famous macarons, although my favorite was something called a crescent ispahan.  This lovely thing was a crescent topped with almond glaze, rose, raspberry compote, and lychees. Our next stop was at an indoor market for meats and cheeses.  The gentleman who owns and runs the boucherie (meat shop) is well-known around Paris and as you can see from all the medals above his head, has won a few awards for his delicious meats.

    Our next stop was a little wine shop, La Derniere Goutte, which was perfect because it started to downpour.  After the ran stopped and we had snacked on our meats, cheeses, and desserts, we ended our tour with chocolate at Patrick Roger’s, who might just be the best chocolatier in Paris.  Diane, our tour guide, was wonderful and had a great story. It was a perfect food day!

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  • Paris Bucket List

    June 4, 2013

    Sacré Coeur de MontmartreSacré Coeur de Montmartre

    As you probably can tell, we’ve arrived in Paris.  I took this picture last week (during one of the few nice weather moments) while Allison and I were sightseeing.  We’ll be here for almost five weeks this summer (although more than a week has already passed) and I’ve put together a bucket list of the things I (and a few additions from Dusty) want to do while we’re here.  If you can tell, many of them are related to food, which is really no surprise.

    Lunch at Verjus
    Hot chocolate at Angelina
    Macarons at Carette in Place des Vosges
    Gelato at Pozzetto in the Marais
    Pizza at La Briciola
    Crepes at Breizh Cafe
    Eclairs at L’Éclair de Génie in the Marais
    Steak & frites at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte
    Dinner at Cafe Constant
    Dinner at Frenchie
    Dinner & drinks (for Dusty) at Frenchie Wine Bar
    Dinner at Les Cocottes
    Lunch at Septime
    French Open at Roland-Garros
    Walk the Paris Promenade
    Go for a picnic and lie on the grass at Place des Vosges
    Take a day trip outside of the city
    Go on a date night with Dusty at least once a week
    See the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower at night
    Go to La Droguerie and Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche for yarn
    Traditional Paris sightseeing

    And then of course, there’s everything else I want/need to be doing that’s not necessarily Paris related.  Some of them include blog writing and making update to how our blog looks, photoshop class, working on my dissertation, knitting, exercising, preparing for the arrival of our bambino, and prepping for summer classes I’ll be teaching when we return home.

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