• Paris
  • Frenchie Bar à Vins

    August 15, 2013

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    One of our new favorite places to eat/drink in Paris is Frenchie Wine Bar.  I’ve talked about Frenchie a couple of times, the reservation only, 20-seat restaurant with prix fixe menu but I haven’t had a chance to talk about the no reservation, first-come first-serve wine bar across the street.  The doors open at 7pm and if you want to get a seat you should arrive early because before the door opens there’s often a line.

    We went during the middle of the week and arrived shortly after 7pm.  We got a table easily but spots filled up fast.  Once we were seated we were given a lengthy list of delicious shared plates served from the open kitchen and a list of some exceptional wines by the glass or bottle.  Of course, with so many of our favorite Paris restaurants, the menu changes constantly.

    I can’t say enough good things about this place, the staff was attentive and had great recommendations, and the food was simple but inventive.  Everything was absolutely delicious.  The ingredients were fresh and each dish was perfectly portioned.  Our favorite dish of the evening was the warmed spring vegetable salad.  Not something we would order but recommended by our waiter and it absolutely blew our minds.

    Frenchie Wine Bar will be one of our go-to places in Paris for so many reasons including the great food, wine and atmosphere.  I’m just a little disappointed that we didn’t try it out until late in our stay this summer and weren’t able to go back.  It’s no surprise that once people arrive and start eating, drinking and socializing, they don’t leave for quite some time.

    frenchiewinebar_002 frenchiewinebar_003Jambon Iberico di Bellota AOC Dehesa de Extremadura, affine 60 mois (60 months aged spanish ham)

    frenchiewinebar_004Oeuf poche, asperges, Keen’s cheddar, girolles (Poached egg, asparagus, cheddar, mushrooms)

    frenchiewinebar_005Salade tiède de légumes de printemps, petit épeautre (Spring vegetable salad)

    frenchiewinebar_006Tortelli ricotta, petite pois, menthe, ricotta salata, (Ricotta tortellini, green peas, mint)

    frenchiewinebar_007Merlu de ligne de Sain-Jean de Luz, asperges, anchois fume (Line-caught hake, asparagus, smoked anchovies)

    frenchiewinebar_008Nuggets de ris de veau, carottes, arroche (Sweetbread nuggets, carrots, 0rach)

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  • Laduree Macarons

    August 13, 2013

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    I’ve talked a lot about sweets in Paris, especially macarons.  One that I haven’t talked about yet is the Ladurée macaron.  One of the landmark places to get macarons in Paris is Ladurée. In 1862, Louis Ernest Ladurée founded his bakery and in 1952, Ladurée’s second cousin, Pierre Desfontaines, made their first macaron.   They are known as the inventor of the double-decker macaron and are still one of the best-known makers of macarons in the world.

    While on a food tour in Paris we discovered that there’s a little controversy surrounding Ladurée macarons because they are mass-produced.  As with so many products in France and Europe, locally sourced and produced is the ultimate goal.

    Even with the controversy I wanted to try the famous Ladurée macrons and I was so glad we did.  I thought they were delicious and some of our favorites.  Dusty and I tried comparing the macarons we’d had from some of the different pastry shops to determine which was the best place for macarons but ultimately we decided that it just depends what flavor you’re getting.  I would say that Ladurée is at the top of our list and had some of the best tasting macarons.  We tried four flavors, chocolat, vanille, caramel fleur de sel (caramel with salted butter), and the framboise (raspberry).  Our favorites were the caramel fleur de sel and the framboise.

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  • Another item on my Paris Bucket List this summer was to have le chocolate chaud (hot chocolate) at Angelina.  I don’t drink coffee so my go-to hot beverage is often hot chocolate and since Paris is much cooler in June than it is in Nebraska (sometimes even in the 60s) , I thought it would be a nice treat on one of the cooler Paris days.

    One chilly afternoon I ventured out and took a stroll to Angelina for some of their famous hot chocolate and equally famous pastry, the Mont Blanc.  This delightful pâtisserie is composed of a vanilla-flavored chestnut cream, fromage blanc/chantilly (a soft fresh type of cream cheese/whipped cream) and meringue. The ingredients give the pastry a sort of crunchy yet creamy texture.  It was a little piece of heaven and was even nice enough to bring a little home to Dusty so he could try it too.

    We’ve walked by Angelina on several occasions and there’s always a line.  It’s an elegant establishment and what’s amazing is that you’ll see tourists sitting along side locals, everyone loves this place.  Because I was alone and didn’t want to wait for a table, I got my drink and pastry for a emporter or “take away” and walked across the street to the Tuileries Garden to sit near one of the fountains and do a little people watching.  I just have to comment on the beautiful packaging.  My mont blanc came in an elegant box and it was almost like opening up a gift it was so pretty.

    angelina_001 angelina_002 angelina_003angelina_004 angelina_005

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  • Place des Vosges

    July 26, 2013

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    Close to our Paris apartment in the Marais district was an amazing little park, the Place des Vosges.  The Place des Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris and was another item on my Paris Bucket List.  Knowing Dusty was going to be busy with work most afternoons I planned to go the park as much as possible to get out of the apartment, enjoy the weather and do a little people watching.  What I love about this park is that it’s an actual square and you must enter by going through one of the archways that lead you from a bustling busy street to this elegant park.

    Just a little history on the Place des Vosges, it’s originally known as the Place Royale, and was built by Henri IV in 1605.  The architecture consists of nine pavilions (houses) per side. The two highest, at the front and back, were for the king and queen (but were never used). Beneath the arcades are cafés, art galleries, and restaurants.

    There’s a great park culture in Paris.  I’m not an expert but Parisians spend a lot of time at parks.  I saw many Parisians at the park over their lunch hour eating a baguette and meeting friends.  I  saw school-aged teenagers eating their lunch (McDonalds was a favorite) or meeting with their friends after school.  I saw couples snuggling up together on blankets.  I saw parents and nannies watching children running around the square (and maybe next summer we’ll be watching our little bambino crawl around the park as well).  I went to my little hidden park a handful of times and every time I couldn’t help but notice how breathtaking the scenery was.

    place des vosges_001place des vosges_003 place des vosges_004 place des vosges_002

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  • Jardin du Luxembourg

    July 25, 2013

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    During one of our afternoon excursions around Paris we visited the Jardin du Luxembourg, or the Luxembourg Gardens.  It is the second largest public park in Paris and located in the 6th arrondissement.  It was such a beautiful garden (and somewhere I could see us visiting with the bambino).  I tend to spend a lot of time at the Tuilleries Gardens, near the Louvre Museum in the 1st arrondissement, but this one might be my new favorite.

    For anyone wanting to know a little history about the gardens, in 1611, Marie de Medicis, the widow of Henry IV, decided to build a palace and purchased the hotel du Luxembourg.  Then in 1630 she bought additional land and enlarged the garden.  The gardens were neglected and then in 1780 part of the garden was sold. Following the French Revolution, the garden was expanded.

    Today the gardens include a large fenced-in playground, a vintage carousel, free musical performances, a small café, and orangerie displaying art, photography and sculptures.

    Below is a picture of the Medici Fountain (La fontaine Médicis).  The sculptures are of the giant Polyphemus surprising the lovers Acis and Galatea.

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  • Chez L’Ami Jean

    June 25, 2013

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    As I mentioned in a previous post about not getting the chance to blog about all of the wonderful dinners we went to while in Paris last summer, Chez L’Ami Jean was one of those restaurants. Reservations are a must here but Dusty was able to call when we arrived in Paris and get us reservations for the first seating (they have two seatings), for a week or so later.

    If you read reviews of the restaurant you’ll find that this place is not for those looking for an elegant, quiet, and attentive dining experience.  I’d agree with all of those things but the food is so good that the loud, small, cramped quarters seem to disappear once the food appears.  I did ask Dusty about our waiter and he said that he remembers our waiter being really great (he has a much better memory than I do).

    When we arrived we were seated and heard a lot of English around us and if I were to guess, the first seating is for the American crowd.  Of course, Dusty and I were a little disappointed because we try not to be your typical tourist but we soon got over our disappointment when the delicious food started coming out (have I mentioned how good the food was)!  There are three choices for dinner: three coure menu for 42 euros, five course menu for 55 euros and then a third option they call carte blanche.

    Of course, Dusty insisted we order the carte blanche, an 80 euro option including whatever chef Stéphane Jego wants to make. And thus, the adventure began.  Some of our favorites

    chezl'amijean_002Left: Unknown creamed soup; Right: Salmon Tartare with poached egg

    chezl'amijean_003Left: Fish with citrus zest; Right: Scallops

    chezl'amijean_004Left: Turbot; Right: Squab

    chezl'amijean_005Famous riz au lait (rice pudding) with accompaniments

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  • Cantine California

    June 24, 2013

    While in Paris last summer Dusty happened to read a New York Times article about the growth of food trucks in Paris and specifically about a new gourmet taco and burger truck, Cantine California, that had just opened a couple months prior.  We had to try it out for several reasons: 1) we love street food and food trucks, 2) we love anyone using high quality, fresh, and local ingredients, and 3) we’re always ready to try something new.

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    I’m not a huge hamburger fan and I wouldn’t say Dusty is either but I can’t deny that I really enjoyed everything about it including the homemade fries.  This year we ventured back for another delicious hamburger and tacos.  Dusty always gets the carnitas and I like the burgers + fries.  I was a little disappointed this year because my fries were a bit overcooked but overall, a great experience.

    Last year and again this year, we noticed a combination of American expats and young Parisians.  Both times there’s been a line and I think that’s a good sign that they’re doing something right.  I’d highly recommend the food truck if you’re looking for a great hamburger or tacos and roaming the streets of Paris.  I used a combination of pictures from both of our trips (the last row is from this year and the others are from last summer).  It was a bit nicer last year as you can see.

    cantinecalifornia_002 cantinecalifornia_003cantinecalifornia_004cantinecalifornia_005

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  • Frenchie

    June 23, 2013

    Well before we got to Paris Dusty started thinking about where he (we) wanted to eat.  He made reservations almost three months ago at Frenchie.  Last summer we were able to get last minute reservations and loved it so much that we were excited to go again this summer.  Here’s the post from last summer if you’re interested in seeing what we had.

    They only seat approximately 3o guests and have two seatings (7pm and 9:30pm).   The menu changes weekly and includes two starters, two main dishes, and two desserts that you can choose from.  This is a perfect menu for Dusty and I because we don’t like ordering the same thing and this way we can each get one of the choices and have tried everything!  Of course we didn’t bring the camera so these pictures were taken with the iphone.

    frenchie_10Here’s the menu and a little selfie of us before we left for dinner.

    frenchie_2frenchie_3Tourteau, courgette, persil (Crab, zucchini, parsley, pasta)

    frenchie_4Poitrine de cochon, chou-fleur, rhubarbe (Pork belly, cauliflower, rhubarb)

    frenchie_5Volaille fermière, asperges, morilles, savagnin de voile (Chicken, asparagus, morels, wine sauce)

    frenchie_6Rouget, artichaut, feves (Fish, artichoke, beans)

    frenchie_7Citron, rhubarbe, glace au miel (Lemon, rhubarb, honey ice cream)

    frenchie_8Fraises des bois, faisselle, glace noisettes (Strawberries, cottage cheese, hazelnut ice cream)

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  • Saturne

    June 22, 2013

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    While we’ve been in Paris this summer I’ve been updating our blog and at the same time, looking back at last year’s pictures from our trip.  It reminded me of all the great dinners we had last summer and that I never got around to blogging about all of them.  Saturne was one of those restaurants.  As you can expect, I can’t remember much from our dining experience other than that we got the wine pairing with our 7 course meal and that everything was delicious.

    saturne_002saturne_003navet de croissy, faisselle de chevre, groseille (turnip, cottage cheese goat, gooseberry)

    saturne_004thon blanc, concombre, amande fraiche (white tuna, cucumber, fresh almond)
    moules, grenaille au foin, plantes maritimes (molds, shot hay, sea plants)

    saturne_005homard bleu, radis, corail (blue lobster, radish, coral)
    pigeonneau, aubergine, girolles (squab, eggplant, mushrooms)

    saturne_006fraise, oseille, yaourt (strawberry, sorrel, yogurt)
    chocolate, betterave, malt (chocolate, beets, malt)

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  • Last summer while in Paris Dusty said that he really wanted to have steak and frites.  He ended up getting his steak frites at a nameless bistro one night while we were out but it was a huge letdown.  This summer we were on a search for the best (or at least a better) steak frites.

    On a side note, I don’t think I’ve mentioned how much research Dusty does on a city’s food scene before and during our trips (why I call it research I don’t know because he really enjoys reading about food).  Well, let’s just say he spends quite a bit of time making sure we eat well.  He did some digging into the best steak frites in Paris and after some due diligence he thought we should try Le Relais de l’Entrecôte.

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    Le Relais de l’Entrecôte is most definitely known for their steak frites, probably because this is the only thing they serve.  They have two locations in Paris and don’t take reservations.

    Each evening a line forms outside the restaurant before they open at 7pm.  We arrived at 7:05pm.  As you can see from the pictures, the line was long.  We were a little worried we might not get in with the first seating and would have to wait (normally not a big deal unless you’re pregnant and have been walking around Paris all day).  It is a big restaurant though so we got lucky and got a table just fine.  We did see others show up shortly after us who had to wait until the next seating.

    So, after getting seated our waitress handed us a drink menu and simply asked us in French, “medium or well done?”  I thought our waitress was very pleasant.  There is no menu because seriously, the only thing they serve is steak frites.

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    Next came out Dusty’s wine, a lettuce walnut salad that’s included with the meal, and bread.  The salad was very simple but I thought delicious.  It comes with a mustard vinaigrette which Dusty thought was a little too spicy for him (it’s a spicy dijon mustard vinaigrette I’m assuming) but I thought it was perfect.

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    After our waitress picked up our salad plates she brought out plates of steak frites with this delicious greenish sauce n the steak for each of us.  Each person’s dish is presented in two servings.  You receive a plate-side portion of steak frites and once you’re done, they bring you out a second helping that is put on your plate.  Both the steak and frites were really good.

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    The whole process is quite interesting to watch.  The sauce was really great and important to note.  When Dusty had his steak frites last summer one of the letdowns was the sauce but Le Relais de l’Entrecôte’s signature sauce was delicious.  According to one of the blogs I follow and a newspaper article on the restaurant, the sauce is made from chicken livers, fresh thyme and thyme flowers, cream, white Dijon mustard, butter, and water, plus salt and pepper and in my opinion, why the restaurant is such a success.

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    Dessert is optional.  At the end of the meal we were given two dessert menus, one written in French and one that had pictures of the desserts.  We shared some type of delicious chocolate cake/brownie with ice cream and whipped cream.

    It was the perfect steak frites dinner (especially for someone who’s pregnant and doesn’t always like making choices).  The salad, steak and frites meal cost somewhere around 28 euros each and the dessert was an additional 7 euros.  If you’re looking for choices this most definitely isn’t the place for you but if you’re looking for a nice steak frites then I would highly recommend.

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